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How do I stop Condensation

Robert Cooke • 3 December 2018

6 easy steps to reduce condensation on the bedroom windows.

‘Why do I get condensation streaming down the bedroom windows in the morning? Where does it all come from?

Mostly breathing and as a result of bathing. Moisture from breathing is easy to prove but it might be a surprise just how much water one adult produces.

If the air is cold you can see breath condensing in the air. But we also breathe through our skin. More accurately we expel water vapour through the millions of holes in the skin. The vapour condenses (sweat) and the water then absorbs heat cooling us down.

When we sleep our body temperature needs to cool down by about 1 or 2 degrees. To cool down whilst feeling cosy in bed means expelling water vapour – sweat. It mostly soaks into our PJs and into the bed linen, covers and mattress.

‘How much water are we talking about?’

Weigh yourself before you go to bed. (Ideally in kilograms as it makes the calculations easier). Then weigh yourself when you first wake up. You will be about 0.3kg (300g) lighter. (If you have been to the loo in between times the calculation will be void).

300g of water has left your body in about say 8 hours of sleep. 300g is the same as 300ml or 0.3 litres and that is as water, not water vapour. 1 adult has produced just over ½ pint, (a mug full).

If your home is occupied all day you will have put about 1½ pints of water, (not water vapour) into your home per 24 hours.

Now add bathing. Having a shower will put more vapour into the air as mentioned in the previous blog.

Try this when you next have a shower: Weigh the towel/s you will use before you dry yourself and then after you dried yourself. 1 gram increase will be the same as 1cc of water absorbed into the towel. There are 1000cc in a litre (technically at 20°C).

As a rough guide 100 grams of water is about 0.18 pints.

If you have long hair you’ll probably use another towel around the head. Check the amount of water it absorbs.

Does this sound familiar?

You’ll probably go into the bedroom to dry your hair. Probably leave the bathroom door open. Then use the hair drier to dry your hair.

(You could do another experiment; weigh yourself before showering and then again after showering. The amount of water your hair will retain is actually quite a lot depending how long and how thick etc.).

Now you have damp towels and lots of hot humid air that the hair drier has created whilst drying your hair. Add that to you breathing all night and putting about ½ pint (a third of a litre) of water into the room. Plus the cooler humid air has rolled out of the bathroom across the landing and into the bedroom, down the stairs (if in a house).

All that vapour condenses on cooler surfaces to become water.

You'll probably have the heating on during the day so the water molecules in the air (vapour) become energised and collide with everything. The collisions are kinetic energy and the result is heat.

You have heated the air and that air will heat everything it is in contact with. The molecules in the air will also attract the water molecules that are in the wet towels and in the bed clothes, mattress and so on. That is evaporation and heat helps the process.

The air in the room is now buzzing away merrily. Warm air can hold more water vapour molecules as the air molecules have more energy to move. The solid walls hold the air in so the result is a rise in pressure.

(A previous blog goes through how the molecules pack into space. The more molecules in a given space means the effect of gravity increases. Humid air has more molecules per unit of space. They are packed in = the air is denser = heavier).

The day has ended, Sunlight no more so draw the curtains and keep the heating on. The air is holding a lot of vapour whilst it is warm. A design temperature for a bed room is 18°C. The idea is it help your body go into sleep mode.

Later the heating turns off and the room temperature gradually cools down. Probably at around 3am it becomes as cool as it will get, about 15°C.

The windows are probably much cooler outside than that. Say a cold night at 3am 5°C.

That means any air in contact with the window inside that room will be cooling down much faster than the rest of the room.

If your windows are double glazed the spacer bar (the older ones were aluminium. Modern ones are plastic) will transfer the heat energy even quicker. That is why you see a halo effect where the condensation is all around the edges and more so near the bottom of the window.

If the air is very humid (holding lots of water vapour) then there will be more condensation.

If the outside temperature is very low, less than 5°C then it is likely that the whole of the window glass area will have condensation on it. As more vapour condenses the amount of droplets become too much for the glass to attract. The result is the water streams down the glass.

The water soaks into the wall, soaks and stains the wall paper, soaks into the plaster. The emulsion paint discolours and the dreaded mould spore start to multiply. The back of the curtains, nets if there are any, and the wall below the window all become damp and go mouldy.

Okay, I don’t suffer with insomnia - How can I get rid of the mould and condensation?

1.Keep the extractor fan running for about 30 minutes after you have finished the shower.


2.Keep the bathroom or en-suite door closed or only just open (12mm or ½” max) to keep the humid air in that room. The extractor fan must be working efficiently though. (see below what was found in a pipe behind the ceiling grill).


3.Put the wet towels back into the bathroom as soon as practical and hang them up to dry off. If you don’t have a towel radiator then hanging them over the shower rod or washing line if available. The worst thing is to hang them over the bedroom door or landing handrail if there is one.


4.Leave the bedroom door open after you have finished in that room. Air needs to circulate to mix up the gases. If you have been sleeping in that room possibly with the door shut all night the mixture of gases will have changed. You have used some of the oxygen and produced carbon dioxide, a bit of methane and added to the water vapour.


5.The bathroom door can also be left open after about the half an hour delay. Air circulation is very important part of lowering the humidity levels.


6.If the room has ‘trickle vents’ or you don’t mind having a small window open for a while it will help with the gas balance change over. Ideally a dwelling should have the air changed about once or twice an hour (as if that’s going to happen).


Those 6 points should significantly reduce the amount of condensation running down the bedroom windows.

There are other factors though.

That was one adult in the dwelling. Multiplying by the number of adults and change the life styles.

Here’s another:

Tracy and Roger are a young couple who both go out to work full time.

They live in a two bed apartment in a high rise block. They leave for work at 6:30am and get home about 7:00pm.

A typical day starts about 5:45am, quick shower each, towels draped over the bedroom and bathroom doors to dry. Shower tiles and bath left wet. Shower curtain all wet too. Shut all the windows and lock the doors and off to the station.

The heating is timed to go off at 6:30am and come back on again at 6:30pm ready for when they arrive home. They have an automatic washing machine but no space for a tumble drier.

They have a clothes horse and the washing out the machine is draped over that as it stands in the kitchen to dry off. Mainly shirts etc. and most of the other clothes go to the dry cleaners.


Mould and condensation are a problem. Clothes in the wardrobe and the bed linen are beginning to smell musty. They have recently found a pair of leather boots bought only a few months ago have mould on them. They are now ruined and a throw away job.

The ceiling is the dense concrete floor of the apartment above that has been Artexed over and painted white. Heating in the apartment is by electric heaters in each room. The walls are poorly insulated and the windows have just been replaced with double glazed Upvc windows.

Although they both earn good money they are spending a fortune on replacing clothes and furnishings and trying to heat the apartment.

Can anything be done to reduce the condensation and stop the mould?

Yes is the simple answer. A small machine the size of a small suitcase should sort most of the problems out. Dehumidifiers have been around a while. Some are noisy and don’t actually do a lot.

When I was at the College I had equipment to actually test a machine in a ‘wet lab’. This particular machine is now Mk5 but is really good.

EcoAir DD1 Classic MK5 Desiccant Dehumidifier. It can be bought for under £180.

Why that machine in particular? It has a laundry mode. Leave washing on a clothes horse in the kitchen and almost shut the door. The machine needs to be relatively close to the washing but not touching it. The laundry mode blows warm air onto the washing and sucks air in through a filter near the base of the unit.

The filter helps catch particulates that are pulled in and the air then passes over a silver filter. Silver is known to kill bacteria and that includes mould spores. It isn’t likely to be 100% efficient but any reduction of mould spores is a good thing.

The humid air (being drawn in near the floor level) passes through a desiccant system.

'My friend has a dehumidifier and it’s noisy and doesn’t do a lot. They’re rubbish!'

By the sounds of it they have a compressor type as opposed to a desiccant dehumidifier. There is a lot of difference. Compressor types are noisy. It’s a bit like the compressor on the back of a fridge.

Compressor dehumidifiers work on a basis of cooling rods and the humid air is blown over them to condense the vapour into a tray below. They are only efficient over a narrow air temperature range.

In contrast a desiccant dehumidifier uses crystals that absorb vapour from the humid air and then dries it off as water (hang on that sounds daft – how can it dry it off as water?)

Without going in to it too technically that is what the machine does. The humid air goes over a wheel covered in crystals and they soak up the moisture. The wheel rotates and warm air is blown over the crystals to dry them out ready to repeat the task. The warm air passes over the silver and through an ioniser before being blown out of the oscillating grill at the top of the machine.

The machine is very quiet (there is no compressor). The manufacturer state 34dBA. That means decibel audio. The ‘A’ is the range that humans can hear. Background noise is about 40dBA so it is very quiet.

The laundry mode is when the machine is on full power. Full power is 620W. Compared to a tumble drier that is about 1.7kW at full power the dehumidifier uses about a third of the amount of electricity. Yes you don’t get ‘owt for nowt’,

The dehumidifier will be on for longer than the tumble drier. It will actually dry more clothes than the tumble drier at one time. However on test it used less electricity to dry more clothes than the tumble drier.

The machine will pull up to 2 ltrs of water out of a building and then turn off ready for emptying. If the washing is dry and the relative humidity is just above 30% then it automatically turns off.

It is ideal for Tracy and Roger. It can dry the washing whilst they are at work. If they leave it in the hallway and the bathroom door and all the other internal doors are left open it will dry the whole apartment out. It will take time though.

The first few days will really take the water out. They may need to leave it on all day, empty it when they get home and turn it on again to run through the night. Empty it in the morning and on again for the day. (If it is on laundry mode it uses 0.62kWh or 0.32kWh when used normally).


It'll cost a fortune though?

Not really. A kWh is about 15p. (hours x days x kW x £/kWh x weeks) = (24 x 7 x 0.32 x 0.15 x 1 = £8.06) That would be the cost if the machine is left on 24 hours a day for a week. There would be an offset cost as the other electric heating will not need to be on as much.

Yes it will use some electricity but the benefits far outweigh ruined clothes, smelly clothes, and damp furnishings that allow mould to grow. After the initial drying out of the apartment the dehumidifier only need be used to dry off the washing and an occasional use if the problems return.

Another gadget that Tracy and Roger may want to buy is an RH gauge. For about £10 the small electronic meter will indicate the relative humidity of their home. It is unlikely to be very accurate and in reality it doesn't matter too much. The meter I use on surveys costs several hundred £ so it should be accurate.

The idea is to occasionally check the RH against the temperature. The RH can be high at say 24°C and no problem with condensation. However when the temperature drops at night (3am is typically the coldest time) condensation could be streaming down the windows. A rough target is about 30 to 35%RH at about 20°C. If it is about 70 or 80%RH at 20°C there will be a problem.


Next week’s blog we’ll look at the heating.

by Robert Cooke 22 February 2019
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by Robert Cooke 12 December 2018
We’re following on with Tracy and Roger and their apartment being expensive to heat. As their apartment has very high humidity levels the cost of heating will be higher than it need be. To heat anything be it a brick, a saucepan, a kettle full of water, they all require energy. However the amount differs with each material or liquid. Water for instance requires a lot of energy to heat it but it also holds heat reasonably well. If the weather is very hot and humid our body sweats to try and keep us cooler. The idea is the sweat being water will absorb heat energy and cool the surface of the skin. Conversely if we are feeling cold our body stops producing water vapour and raises the fine hairs that cover the body in order to trap air from moving. Still air is a good insulator. The bottom line is water and wet things take a lot of energy to try and raise the temperature. Dry air takes far less energy to heat it. Tracy and Roger have, or rather had a very humid apartment that made everything damp. Even the air was full of water vapour so it took a lot of energy to raise the air temperature. Drying the whole apartment out with the dehumidifier mentioned in the previous blog has made the air will be easier to heat. The air is in contact with most things in the apartment so it will raise the temperature of everything it is in contact with until it is all at the same temperature.
by Robert Cooke 23 November 2018
The Blog this week is about: Myths and mis-information regarding Condensation & Moulds There are Company websites proclaiming they are ‘experts in condensation and mould issues’. They state things like: ‘Get the professionals in’, ‘The condensation experts’. But should you believe them? How do you know if they are just a website that states ‘pseudo facts’ that are nothing more than just myths? Even Local Councils and Housing Associations get taken in. Look at some of their facts and compare with actual proven science: Opening windows ‘Open the window and let all the steam out’ – It helps very slightly however doesn’t do much at all to reduce the condensation around the home. As mentioned in a previous blog dry air is molecules of nitrogen (78%), oxygen (21%) and trace gases (1%) with space in between them. Humid air is dry air with water molecules (vapour) in the spaces. Water can be solid as ice, liquid as water or gas as vapour. The molecules are exactly the same with a ratio of 1 hydrogen atom to 2 oxygen atoms (H2O). Water can vaporise at temperatures well below boiling point (100°C). The evidence is water evaporates from the oceans and seas etc. Leave a glass of water and eventually the water will evaporate. (If you want to find out more it will be in Construction Science Explained – www.buildabooks.co.uk out next year). The atoms of a water molecule remain the same whether it is water, ice or vapour. As vapour they can float in the spaces between the other gases in the air. That process is termed humidity. A common ‘myth-statement’ ‘Steam is water vapour’ . Not true. Steam is water. It is water vapour that has condensed in the air therefore it is actually condensation and visible. Gases including water vapour are not visible. Molecules are more than one atom. It can be the same type or different types termed compounds. Either way although they do not have a weight as such (Atoms have an atomic weight that is a comparison with a carbon atom). Atoms do have a mass though. That mass can be attracted by a greater mass. The greater the mass the stronger the attraction. (Similar to weight). The planet Earth is made up of an enormous number of atoms. The combined attraction (pulling force) we call ‘gravity’. It’s a bit like a very large magnet will attract a smaller item such as a nail. The nail if magnetised will attract a smaller pin, and so it goes on down the sizes. Gravity however is a strong attractive force that can go through most things and still attract. It can go through the tallest buildings and still have an effect on an aircraft flying at 35,000 feet in the air. So logically it also has an attractive force on every atom be it in a solid (the aircraft), a liquid (rain comes downwards) and the gases. If it didn’t have any effect on the gases they would all have gone off into outer space. Irrefutable evidence: the higher the altitude the less molecules. We state that the air is ‘thinner’. What it actually means there are less molecules, less nitrogen, less oxygen etc. and a lot more space. So what has all this proved? Air can be dry – no water vapour in it. Very rare though, most air has some water vapour in it even in the hottest deserts. Atoms have a mass. The more mass in the same volume means there is more atoms for gravity to act on. We term that ‘weight’. If you could take say a gold bar that has a weight on Earth of 6kg then send it to the Moon it would then only weigh about 1kg. The gold bar hasn’t changed, it still has exactly the same number of atoms in it. The only difference is the attraction force ‘gravity’. The Moon is that much smaller so less atoms to to do the attraction. If air is heated the molecules will become more energised. They will move more quickly and collide with each other. The collisions tend to end up as the molecules bouncing off and going in a different direction to their next collision. All the time that is happening gravity is trying to pull them down to the lowest point and slows them down The result is less collisions = less heat generated = the air cools down. If a cubic metre of air is considered there will be a given number of air molecules in it at a specific temperature. If the molecules are given more heat (energy) they become more energised and travel faster and further. There will be fewer molecules in the cubic metre as the temperature rises. Fewer molecules means the pull of gravity has less effect. The cooler air will push the warmer less dense air upwards. Warm air rises and that is the reason why. Evidence: the attractive force of gravity can be compared to magnetic attractive force. The closer together metal particles are the easier the magnet can attract them (ignore friction). Warm air is less dense than cooler air as there are fewer molecules for gravity to act on. Warm air therefore is displaced by cooler air that has more molecules in the given volume. The end result is warmer air will be pushed upwards by the cooler air trying to get as low as possible. That was considering dry air only; Nitrogen, oxygen and trace gases argon and carbon dioxide. Now add water vapour. Water vapour (H2O) has mass so will be attracted by gravity. The more vapour that can fill the gaps in the dry air the denser the molecules. The more effect by gravitational pull and the air is effectively ‘heavier’. At the same temperature the humid air is going to sink. As is sinks it displaces (pushes) the drier air out of the way. If there are walls then the only place the lighter drier air can go is upwards. It is said it ‘rises’ but it is actually it is being pushed upwards by the more dense air. (Nothing can go upwards without energy being used, not even atoms). So dry air is less dense than humid air at the same temperature. The warmer the air the fewer number of molecules therefore they get pushed upwards (rise).
by Robert Cooke 15 November 2018
The Blog this weeks is about: Condensation & Moulds Now is the time that condensation and mould growth are most noticeable. The temperatures outside are dropping and rain and damp mornings are commonplace. Here are: · 6 easy ways to reduce Condensation and moulds around your home And if you’re interested into the ‘whys and what ifs’ then the science will explain all. The science behind as to: · ‘Why does mould grow behind and under my furniture?’ · ‘Why have my best leather boots gone mouldy in a box under my bed?’ · ‘What if I turn the heating up?’ · ‘Why do my clothes get mould on them when they’re in a drawer?’ · ‘Why does the grout on my bathroom tiles go mouldy?’ To start with though: 6 easy ways to reduce Condensation and moulds 1.  Install an efficient extractor in the bathroom over the shower area. 2.  Turn the extractor on before you turn the shower or bath taps on. 3.  Ensure there is a minimum gap of 10mm (3/8”) under the bathroom door. Make sure the gap is above the top of the carpet pile. 4.  Have the maximum over-run (30mins) set on the timer. Or leave the extractor on for 30minutes after you have finished the shower. 5.  Wipe down the shower walls and shower tray or bath to remove as much water as you can. 6.  Keep the bathroom / en-suite door closed or very slightly open to keep the humid air in that room. Stop it spreading throughout your home. Those 6 easy steps will significantly reduce condensation in your home. Mould needs moisture to multiply and you’ve just reduced that. The science for those interested: Air is mainly nitrogen (78%) and oxygen (21%), plus 1% traces of other gases. That’s only a guide though. Imagine nothing, absolutely nothing. No atoms, no gases, not a single thing – space – nothing. Now imagine lots of tennis balls and table tennis balls in that space. They can represent the nitrogen and oxygen molecules. There is still space between them though where there is nothing. In that space there will be argon and carbon dioxide. They make up about 1% of the gas content of air. Now we can put in some other gases into the spaces: Hydrogen and some more oxygen at the ratio of H2O or more commonly known as water. Water can be as a solid (ice), liquid (water) or gas (vapour). It is still H2O though. Gravity acts on gases in the same way as it does on solids and liquids. The main difference is that the molecules in gases have energy that makes them continually move. They continually collide with other molecules bouncing around in the space. When there are lots of molecules close together (more dense) the gravity has more effect. Dry air has fewer molecules than humid air therefore lighter (at a comparable temperature). Back to the shower – Hot water has put more energy into the molecules. They are moving around very quickly colliding frequently. Eventually unless more energy (heat in this case) is put in the molecules they will slow down and collide less. The pressure will slowly decrease and more molecules will be in one place (density = mass divided by volume). The humid air will cool down and become even heavier as more molecules gather together. End result; A hot shower will produce a lot of water vapour (it hasn’t got to be above 100°C though) The water vapour will go in between the nitrogen and the oxygen molecules until it virtually fills all the spaces. That is saturation point. If the air is at a specific temperature it can be calculated how much water vapour it can take up. As the air cools down the molecules slow down and the collisions reduce. The number of molecules in the same volume increases and the air becomes denser. Cooler saturated air is heavier than warmer drier air. Therefore the humid air will go to as low as it can get – the floor. Leave the bathroom door open wide and all that humid air will fall out of the room into other rooms, even down the stairs. As it does so the humid air will condense on anything that is cooler than the air. Cold surfaces like walls, windows, ceramic tiles, and carpets. Furniture such as beds, settees, wardrobes and drawers will all be cooler than the humid air so will condense the moisture. Areas behind furniture are particularly vulnerable as there will be minimal heat (thermal convection). The gap will have a cool wall on one side and cool back of the furniture on the other. The wall is likely to have plaster on it, or be made from a sheet of plasterboard. Gypsum plaster requires a lot of water to enable it to be fully workable. Literally hundreds of litres are required to plaster out a house. It then takes about a year for it to fully evaporate off if the room air is dry. The plaster when dry is then full of minute holes that the water once filled. Crystals have formed with tiny gaps between them. The result is a hygroscopic material, meaning it will absorb moisture where available. Now back to the plot. Shower of hot water vapour saturating the air. The hot water is providing energy to the air molecules and they are all moving very fast and colliding. Gravity is trying to pull all the molecules downward therefore slowing them down. As they slow down more molecules gather in a specific volume of air and it sinks downwards. Humid air contains more molecules than dry air therefore it is heavier and will sink. Any material that is cooler than the humid air will condense the water vapour back into liquid form – water. If it is a non-porous material such as glass, metal or plastic it will form beads of water – condensation. If it is a porous material such as a carpet, bed linen, curtains, clothes then the condensation will soak into the material and it becomes damp. Hygroscopic materials actually pull the moisture into them (a bit like kitchen towel soaks up spills). The walls and ceilings are plaster and most likely gypsum plaster and will pull in water vapour. Even if the surface has been painted over with a plastic emulsion the vapour can still go though. Water molecules are too big though so they cannot pass through. So what have we ended up with? Hot and steamy air in the shower room. The air is cooling down and the high humidity air drops to the floor. The door is left open and all that humid air has a greater pressure than the cooler air of the other rooms. The pressure enables the humid air to roll across the floor and down stairs if there are any (not very common in a bungalow though) filling anywhere it can. As it does so the water vapour condenses out of the air and either forms condensation (water) or makes things damp. Enter the mould spore. Air isn’t just nitrogen and oxygen plus a few trace gases. It also contains pollutants. They can be particulates (tiny particles of solid matter that are so small they cannot normally be seen). They are there though. That is what dust is. There is enough energy in air to bounce the gas molecules against the solids causing them to float. As the air cools down, less energy and the solid particulates are pulled downwards by gravity. (Dust settles more so at night when it is cooler and the air more static). Moulds Mould spores are microscopic, so tiny they are virtually invisible. They are naturally blowing around in the air. Natural and necessary they are one of nature’s cleaners taking anything they can back into the ground. A dead tree would still be there forever if it wasn’t for moulds and fungi. The spores float in and out of everywhere including buildings and vehicles. We breathe them in and our bodies have various methods to stop them doing any damage to us. If we have a breathing issue though, or generally unwell the spores can set up reactions. They can cause eyes and ears to itch, throats to become inflamed, breathing difficulties and possibly worse. Black spore mould is very common. The spores are present in the air as mentioned. If they become attached to a host surface they can soak up moisture and the chemicals it contains. They cannot eat as such but absorb moisture. If the moisture has carbon in it that is food to the spore and it will multiply. More moisture, more carbon = more spores until there is a colony of them. Sugar is made up of carbon. Cellulose is the natural sugar found in wood and wood based products such as paper and cardboard. It is also a base for wallpaper paste hence; ‘Poly cell ’. Plaster is hygroscopic and will soak up moisture from the air. The wall is a conductor of heat energy therefore the plaster will be continually cooled down. The plaster will condense water vapour and any wall paper will in turn become damp. The mould spores can suck up (actually they can’t ‘suck’ they just absorb) the moisture including the carbon content in the cellulose. The wallpaper is a wood pulp product and the paste also full of cellulose. Mould spores can then multiply very quickly. More steamy showers = more moisture everywhere = mould growth. The cooler areas behind curtains, behind furniture, in and under drawers, under mattresses and in wardrobes are all ideal for mould spores. The moist air will go everywhere.
by Robert Cooke 3 November 2018
Buying property can be very stressful. You find something you like and hopefully can afford. It's not a new build so it won't come with any guarantees or warranties. 'Caveat emptor' - let the buyer beware! You'll be paying stamp duty, legal conveyance fees, valuation fee and so on so why pay out for a Building Surveyor? The house I surveyed this week was built in the 1950's, roughly 70 years ago. It had been through long drought years, wet years, cold year etc. so things will wear out. When you look around the property the main focus tends to be on what you can do with it. Settee can go there, tele' can go on the wall over there, kitchen needs a bit of an update, bathroom's not bad and the main bedroom is a reasonable size. And so it goes on. A Building Surveyor isn't interested in any of that at all. He or she will be looking at the roof lines, chimney condition, whether all the opening windows actually open easily, doors shut properly, locks actually lock, drains are working and so on. Basically all the nuts and bolts that keep the building together. The surveyor checks for anything that moves that shouldn't, has a crack in it, a chip out of it, water in it when it should be dry. Looks in spaces behind furniture, looks for strange marks, different materials, checks lights work, sockets have been wired up correctly, looks for signs of condensation, mould, mildew and a whole gambit of issues that you wouldn't dream of looking at when you view the property. The house I looked at was very neat and tidy and very clean, not a quick wash round. That made checking for condensation and moulds very easy as there were no tell-tale stains anywhere. The vendor was a keen DIYer. Very good at decorating and gardening. Not so good at complying with Regulations though. A Building Surveyor should be familiar with various styles of building and materials that would be used. If a room proportion looks out of character or sounds strange when tapped interest should be shown. Has the position of a wall been moved? If so should it should have had Building Regulation approval or a Building Notice Certificate? Many people just knock walls down to make two rooms into one. A bit of steel and plasterboard - all done. Is it safe though? Was the wall a buttress wall, part of a cruciform structure for a semi-detached? It may not have any joists on it but it is required to support another wall. What about the electrics? The vendor has re-wired the house. He wasn't a qualified electrician but had an electrician put a new consumer unit in. Checking the cabling in the loft it was clear nothing had been clipped, connectors and switches just left loose on and under the loft insulation. A qualified electrician will need to check all of the wiring and sign the work off as complying with the Building Act and Building Regulations. The UPVC windows had been foam fixed. Not a fixing screw anywhere. Do the windows need fixing screws? Were they fitted in compliance with FENSA and certificated or checked and Certificated by the Local Authority Building Control. Is it important? Yes is the short answer. It is going to cost money to remedy all the issues. Who is going to pay? The buyer or the vendor? Does it need to be remedied? Again yes. If it is a safety issue that is important. If it is something that needs to comply with Regulations then apart from being an offence if not Certified it may devalue the property especially if something collapses or starts to fall apart later. If you want to sell in the future then the conveyancing firm will be asking for the information. There is a lot more information in Buying Your First Home. It is also very useful for anyone considering moving home.
by Robert Cooke 28 October 2018
What are Property Surveys? There are many different types and lots of mis-conceptions about what they actually cover.
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