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Is Artex on ceilings and walls a Health Hazard?

Robert Cooke • 22 February 2019

'No I won't buy the property as there is Artex on the ceilings!'

Chatting with the director of a local Estate Agency it appears that property buyers have pulled out just because the surveyor has noted ‘Artexed ceilings’.

Is Artex dangerous? If so why?

It’s true that some of the textured plaster finishes used on ceilings and walls contained asbestos.

Asbestos has been known as a potential health hazard since the late 1700’s so it’s nothing new. It can cause a lung disease Mesothelioma, more commonly known as asbestosis.

Who is at risk?

Well it is really ‘luck of the draw’, a bit like smoking. If you worked with asbestos, asbestolux and asbestos lagging you will have been in the high risk category. Working in construction and more recently demolition the risk is very much increased.

The HSE (Health and Safety Executive) provide a lengthy list of the various trades and professions that are at risk on their website: http://www.hse.gov.uk/asbestos/risk.htm

Risk assessment

In comparison with smoking it doesn’t follow that having one cigarette will give you lung cancer. It could though and that is where ‘luck of the drawer’ comes in. As with the case of Roy Castle who was a non-smoker it is possible to contract lung cancer by being in a room with smokers. But it doesn’t mean it is going to happen – just the risks are increased.

Okay but what about the Artex ceilings?

During the 1970’s many new buildings had the then fashionable textured ceilings. Swirly non-descript patterns through to stipple effect with plaster coving around the top of the wall.

As with most fashions plain, smooth white ceilings were ‘old hat’ and could be made to look luxurious and modern with the figured coating. It also covered up cracked ceilings.

To stop the thin coat of plaster drying out too fast and help it bond powdered asbestos known as ‘chystotile asbestos’ was added to the plaster during manufacture. It accounted for less than 2% by volume of the plaster.

Is there a risk to health? Yes is the short answer and that is the reason it was banned on November 24th 1999. Asbestos and materials containing asbestos were banned in 1985 however chrysotile could still be used until it was banned in 1999.

The plasterers and ‘Artexer’s’ (specialist plasterers) and their labourers would have been in the very high risk category as they were breathing in the dust most of the day.

What about all the buildings that have figured plaster ‘Artex’ ceilings and walls?

Not a problem as long as the surface has been painted over with emulsion paint. Most emulsion paints are basically PVA (the same liquid used as wood glue) and pigments plus water. The water enabled the emulsion to soak into the surface of the plaster and the PVA then dried off sticking the pigment on the surface forming a skin.

The second and consequent coats of emulsion then bonded to the surface building up a thicker skin. That has sealed the plaster in and if there is any asbestos in with the plaster (not all figured plaster contained it though) it is safely contained.

What about scraping it off? NOT a good idea at all . The best option is to wash the ceiling over to remove any grease and then coat with a dilute wash of PVA (or two). Let it almost dry off and then skim the surface with Thistle Finishing plaster or similar product.

The same applies to walls that have been coated with sculptured plaster. A popular pattern was the heavy relief pattern ‘tree bark’. It will require more than just a skim coat to cover that.

However a good tradesman (yes or trades girl) should be able to skim over without taking the sculptured plaster off. Unless the Artex has been put on very thickly it should be possible for the plasterer to ‘feather’ the edges so the coating doesn’t mean the light switches, power sockets, skirting boards and architrave need moving.

What about the gels that are designed to remove figured plasters?

As I haven’t any firsthand knowledge of how good and effective they are I cannot comment.

However the HSE though state that if large areas are to be removed using the gel or steaming it off then it is ‘notifiable’ and must be treated as a ‘hazardous material’ . That then becomes a specialist job using full precautions and specialist equipment. The disposal of the waste also becomes a hazardous waste . Not putting it in a black dustbin bag and out for the rubbish or down the tip. There is more information on the HSE website.

Who else is at risk? Electricians – they are probably the most at risk when they chase out through the plaster with a ‘wall chaser’. It is a machine that cuts a channel using high speed rotating blades. They throw out so much dust it becomes like a fog. Wearing a dust mask isn’t going to help much if at all.



The manufacturers of ‘wall chasers’ have designed much better machines that have a hood that can be connected to a constant suction machine such as a vacuum cleaner.

However the vacuum holding container must be suitable for masonry dust and the filters capable of preventing dust from the exhaust. Not a domestic vacuum cleaner though.


But my property needs a re-wire and I want additional sockets.

If the walls are finished in ordinary plaster then normal PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) should be worn. Eye protection, ear protection and a suitable dust mask. Polythene dust sheets should be used to cover furnishings and carpets etc.

If the wall has figured plaster treat it as if it is Artex even if it isn’t. There were alternatives being used such as ‘Wondertex’ made by RMC. It was asbestos free (that’s what they told us).

Where Artex or similar figured plasters have been used on a wall that is to be chased out then sheet out with polythene over the floor area and tape the edge to the skirting board. Place a length of wetted kitchen paper along the edge where the wall abuts the floor. The idea is the damp kitchen paper will catch and small particles and heavier dust.

Score through the paint and surface plaster with a sharp knife where the intended chase is to go and use a small hand spray or wet (not dripping wet) cloth to wipe over the chase. Use a sharp bolster chisel to cut through the plaster layers down to the backing coat. Remove the coated plaster into a bucket and take it outside.


The important issues are:

1. The sculptured plaster (Artex or similar) will have been removed in chunks, not dust. There will be some minute dust particles and that is why the wet cloth was required. That will stop the dust.

2.There will be small particles that will fall away (and some larger ones if the original plaster is old and friable). Those will drop down onto the polythene sheet and be caught up on the wetted kitchen towel.

3.Cleaning up is easy – kitchen towel can go in the refuse. With the small amount of potential dust it is not a listed hazardous material like asbestos. A quick wipe over the polythene with a damp piece of kitchen towel and dispose of in the bin outside.

4.The rest of the chase depth can be cut either using a sharp bolster chisel, ‘needle’ out and finish with a sharp bolster.

Using your domestic vacuum cleaner is not a good idea . They are not designed for masonry dust and the exhaust will be blowing out into the room.

The size of the dust is measured on microns, so small it cannot be seen with the naked eye and will float in the air if blown about.

A dust pan and brush is better and damp kitchen towel to wipe up the residue dust. Then a quick rinse of the dust pan and brush.


Why isn't it a good idea using my vacuum cleaner?

If there is asbestos in the dust you don’t want it left in your vacuum cleaner. The filtration system isn’t designed to take that kind of dust. Most house dust is relatively soft flakes of dead skin, fabric fibres from clothes, furnishings and small amounts of grit and dust from outside. The HSE recommend a class H vacuum cleaner be used. They are specifically designed for working with asbestos.

A HEPA filter will not stop asbestos particles This is an extract from the HSE information sheet: ‘Never use domestic vacuum cleaners, even those fitted with high efficiency particle arrestor (HEPA) filters as these are not adequate for use with asbestos, and will allow asbestos fibres to pass straight through’.

Some hire shops can help. It isn’t mandatory for just a few holes or a one off short chase but logically it lowers the risk.

Macho, macho Man! – There is nothing macho about not taking precautions for your health (or those around you). The Health and Safety at Work Act requires everyone (no exceptions) to be responsible for their own health and safety and those around them .

I am thinking of having recessed lights put in

A very popular ‘home improvement’. Simple – buy a holesaw from the DIY store, cut the hole, wire up the light – yep simple! Or is it?

Using a ‘holesaw’ attached to an electric drill creates dust. The teeth on the cutter cut through the plaster converting it into dust. The rotation of the cutter and the fan on the drill will blow some of the dust around and into the air. More of the dust will fall onto the person using the cutter; onto their hand, down their arm and over their face.

Holesaws are relatively cheap and easily available so tend to be a popular DIY job. (There are Regulations but that will be another blog)

An electrician should be using a shrouded cutter though. It is designed to keep the dust in a container which fits against the ceiling. The problem is that a figured plaster coating by its design is not smooth and the shroud does not stop all the dust.

An electrician who is working as a business should have a ‘Risk Assessment’ and ‘Method Statement’ if they are working on a large job as a subcontractor. The client and main contractor will require those as part of the Health and Safety requirement.

However the domestic electrician is unlikely to have those. If a ‘one man band’ it’s not a legal requirement however if it is a business with several employees there is a legal requirement. Don’t laugh too loud – I agree I have never come across a domestic electrician who has them, most don’t even know what they are.


In brief:


  • Whatever the job and whoever is doing it there are risks. The aim is to minimise or completely remove them. Think the job through right up to ‘thanks very much, I’ll be off now – job finished’.

  • If it is a relatively small amount of work such as drilling a few hole through figured plasters to put say a book shelf up or curtain rail then try and catch as much of the dust as practical onto a damp sheet or two of kitchen paper. The HSE provide a very useful help sheet for drill holes etc.


One practical tip is to use wallpaper paste. It is thick and sticky so dub it where you intend to drill and use either a hand drill or slow speed on a powered drill. The wallpaper paste will catch the dust and can easily be wiped off with damp kitchen towel.

If you intend having a large area such as wall or ceilings steam stripped or gel stripped it becomes a notifiable project . That means by Law you must notify the Local Authority and then carry out the work in accordance with the removal of Hazardous Material . It is really then a specialist contractor job. Not as the various ‘forums’ would have you believe.

If you intend using any of the gel type strippers contact the manufacturers and ask for the Independent test certificate such as BBA (British Board of Agrĕment) or similar, or their Safety Sheets. Some appear to have no independent test certificates or safety sheets. They are a requirement if the products are being used commercially and should be available for the domestic market as well.

If the product is corrosive enough to go through emulsion paint and then soak into the textured plaster enough to de-bond it then it has to be hazardous. There has to be advice as to what to do if it is in contact with skin or splashed in the eye, inhaled or swallowed. There is also a requirement for any contractor to supply that information as part of their Risk Assessment and Method Statement (R.A.M.s).

Looking on the bright side the figured plaster coating may not contain asbestos. If you are worried or just concerned you can have a laboratory test samples and they will confirm whether it contains asbestos or not. It is important to use reputable and registered Asbestos removal firms. Obviously they charge a fee but you will know for certain.

Finally the HSE have stated that the risks are based on moderation. If you intend to put up a curtain rail, book shelf or something similar take the precautions mentioned above. If you intend having a ceiling or walls stripped of figured plaster it would be worth having the material analysed first. If it doesn’t contain asbestos then steaming it off may be okay. The plaster content is calcium carbonate mainly so not a problem.

If the material is Artex that contains asbestos then it is best to employ a registered specialist. Not just a local builder who says he can do it. Reading the blogs on-line is enough to realise there are a lot of ‘so called builders’ that do not know much about Health and Safety.


An excellent website explaining Non-licensed tasks involving Artex:

http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/guidance/em4.pdf

by Robert Cooke 8 January 2019
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by Robert Cooke 12 December 2018
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by Robert Cooke 3 December 2018
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by Robert Cooke 23 November 2018
The Blog this week is about: Myths and mis-information regarding Condensation & Moulds There are Company websites proclaiming they are ‘experts in condensation and mould issues’. They state things like: ‘Get the professionals in’, ‘The condensation experts’. But should you believe them? How do you know if they are just a website that states ‘pseudo facts’ that are nothing more than just myths? Even Local Councils and Housing Associations get taken in. Look at some of their facts and compare with actual proven science: Opening windows ‘Open the window and let all the steam out’ – It helps very slightly however doesn’t do much at all to reduce the condensation around the home. As mentioned in a previous blog dry air is molecules of nitrogen (78%), oxygen (21%) and trace gases (1%) with space in between them. Humid air is dry air with water molecules (vapour) in the spaces. Water can be solid as ice, liquid as water or gas as vapour. The molecules are exactly the same with a ratio of 1 hydrogen atom to 2 oxygen atoms (H2O). Water can vaporise at temperatures well below boiling point (100°C). The evidence is water evaporates from the oceans and seas etc. Leave a glass of water and eventually the water will evaporate. (If you want to find out more it will be in Construction Science Explained – www.buildabooks.co.uk out next year). The atoms of a water molecule remain the same whether it is water, ice or vapour. As vapour they can float in the spaces between the other gases in the air. That process is termed humidity. A common ‘myth-statement’ ‘Steam is water vapour’ . Not true. Steam is water. It is water vapour that has condensed in the air therefore it is actually condensation and visible. Gases including water vapour are not visible. Molecules are more than one atom. It can be the same type or different types termed compounds. Either way although they do not have a weight as such (Atoms have an atomic weight that is a comparison with a carbon atom). Atoms do have a mass though. That mass can be attracted by a greater mass. The greater the mass the stronger the attraction. (Similar to weight). The planet Earth is made up of an enormous number of atoms. The combined attraction (pulling force) we call ‘gravity’. It’s a bit like a very large magnet will attract a smaller item such as a nail. The nail if magnetised will attract a smaller pin, and so it goes on down the sizes. Gravity however is a strong attractive force that can go through most things and still attract. It can go through the tallest buildings and still have an effect on an aircraft flying at 35,000 feet in the air. So logically it also has an attractive force on every atom be it in a solid (the aircraft), a liquid (rain comes downwards) and the gases. If it didn’t have any effect on the gases they would all have gone off into outer space. Irrefutable evidence: the higher the altitude the less molecules. We state that the air is ‘thinner’. What it actually means there are less molecules, less nitrogen, less oxygen etc. and a lot more space. So what has all this proved? Air can be dry – no water vapour in it. Very rare though, most air has some water vapour in it even in the hottest deserts. Atoms have a mass. The more mass in the same volume means there is more atoms for gravity to act on. We term that ‘weight’. If you could take say a gold bar that has a weight on Earth of 6kg then send it to the Moon it would then only weigh about 1kg. The gold bar hasn’t changed, it still has exactly the same number of atoms in it. The only difference is the attraction force ‘gravity’. The Moon is that much smaller so less atoms to to do the attraction. If air is heated the molecules will become more energised. They will move more quickly and collide with each other. The collisions tend to end up as the molecules bouncing off and going in a different direction to their next collision. All the time that is happening gravity is trying to pull them down to the lowest point and slows them down The result is less collisions = less heat generated = the air cools down. If a cubic metre of air is considered there will be a given number of air molecules in it at a specific temperature. If the molecules are given more heat (energy) they become more energised and travel faster and further. There will be fewer molecules in the cubic metre as the temperature rises. Fewer molecules means the pull of gravity has less effect. The cooler air will push the warmer less dense air upwards. Warm air rises and that is the reason why. Evidence: the attractive force of gravity can be compared to magnetic attractive force. The closer together metal particles are the easier the magnet can attract them (ignore friction). Warm air is less dense than cooler air as there are fewer molecules for gravity to act on. Warm air therefore is displaced by cooler air that has more molecules in the given volume. The end result is warmer air will be pushed upwards by the cooler air trying to get as low as possible. That was considering dry air only; Nitrogen, oxygen and trace gases argon and carbon dioxide. Now add water vapour. Water vapour (H2O) has mass so will be attracted by gravity. The more vapour that can fill the gaps in the dry air the denser the molecules. The more effect by gravitational pull and the air is effectively ‘heavier’. At the same temperature the humid air is going to sink. As is sinks it displaces (pushes) the drier air out of the way. If there are walls then the only place the lighter drier air can go is upwards. It is said it ‘rises’ but it is actually it is being pushed upwards by the more dense air. (Nothing can go upwards without energy being used, not even atoms). So dry air is less dense than humid air at the same temperature. The warmer the air the fewer number of molecules therefore they get pushed upwards (rise).
by Robert Cooke 15 November 2018
The Blog this weeks is about: Condensation & Moulds Now is the time that condensation and mould growth are most noticeable. The temperatures outside are dropping and rain and damp mornings are commonplace. Here are: · 6 easy ways to reduce Condensation and moulds around your home And if you’re interested into the ‘whys and what ifs’ then the science will explain all. The science behind as to: · ‘Why does mould grow behind and under my furniture?’ · ‘Why have my best leather boots gone mouldy in a box under my bed?’ · ‘What if I turn the heating up?’ · ‘Why do my clothes get mould on them when they’re in a drawer?’ · ‘Why does the grout on my bathroom tiles go mouldy?’ To start with though: 6 easy ways to reduce Condensation and moulds 1.  Install an efficient extractor in the bathroom over the shower area. 2.  Turn the extractor on before you turn the shower or bath taps on. 3.  Ensure there is a minimum gap of 10mm (3/8”) under the bathroom door. Make sure the gap is above the top of the carpet pile. 4.  Have the maximum over-run (30mins) set on the timer. Or leave the extractor on for 30minutes after you have finished the shower. 5.  Wipe down the shower walls and shower tray or bath to remove as much water as you can. 6.  Keep the bathroom / en-suite door closed or very slightly open to keep the humid air in that room. Stop it spreading throughout your home. Those 6 easy steps will significantly reduce condensation in your home. Mould needs moisture to multiply and you’ve just reduced that. The science for those interested: Air is mainly nitrogen (78%) and oxygen (21%), plus 1% traces of other gases. That’s only a guide though. Imagine nothing, absolutely nothing. No atoms, no gases, not a single thing – space – nothing. Now imagine lots of tennis balls and table tennis balls in that space. They can represent the nitrogen and oxygen molecules. There is still space between them though where there is nothing. In that space there will be argon and carbon dioxide. They make up about 1% of the gas content of air. Now we can put in some other gases into the spaces: Hydrogen and some more oxygen at the ratio of H2O or more commonly known as water. Water can be as a solid (ice), liquid (water) or gas (vapour). It is still H2O though. Gravity acts on gases in the same way as it does on solids and liquids. The main difference is that the molecules in gases have energy that makes them continually move. They continually collide with other molecules bouncing around in the space. When there are lots of molecules close together (more dense) the gravity has more effect. Dry air has fewer molecules than humid air therefore lighter (at a comparable temperature). Back to the shower – Hot water has put more energy into the molecules. They are moving around very quickly colliding frequently. Eventually unless more energy (heat in this case) is put in the molecules they will slow down and collide less. The pressure will slowly decrease and more molecules will be in one place (density = mass divided by volume). The humid air will cool down and become even heavier as more molecules gather together. End result; A hot shower will produce a lot of water vapour (it hasn’t got to be above 100°C though) The water vapour will go in between the nitrogen and the oxygen molecules until it virtually fills all the spaces. That is saturation point. If the air is at a specific temperature it can be calculated how much water vapour it can take up. As the air cools down the molecules slow down and the collisions reduce. The number of molecules in the same volume increases and the air becomes denser. Cooler saturated air is heavier than warmer drier air. Therefore the humid air will go to as low as it can get – the floor. Leave the bathroom door open wide and all that humid air will fall out of the room into other rooms, even down the stairs. As it does so the humid air will condense on anything that is cooler than the air. Cold surfaces like walls, windows, ceramic tiles, and carpets. Furniture such as beds, settees, wardrobes and drawers will all be cooler than the humid air so will condense the moisture. Areas behind furniture are particularly vulnerable as there will be minimal heat (thermal convection). The gap will have a cool wall on one side and cool back of the furniture on the other. The wall is likely to have plaster on it, or be made from a sheet of plasterboard. Gypsum plaster requires a lot of water to enable it to be fully workable. Literally hundreds of litres are required to plaster out a house. It then takes about a year for it to fully evaporate off if the room air is dry. The plaster when dry is then full of minute holes that the water once filled. Crystals have formed with tiny gaps between them. The result is a hygroscopic material, meaning it will absorb moisture where available. Now back to the plot. Shower of hot water vapour saturating the air. The hot water is providing energy to the air molecules and they are all moving very fast and colliding. Gravity is trying to pull all the molecules downward therefore slowing them down. As they slow down more molecules gather in a specific volume of air and it sinks downwards. Humid air contains more molecules than dry air therefore it is heavier and will sink. Any material that is cooler than the humid air will condense the water vapour back into liquid form – water. If it is a non-porous material such as glass, metal or plastic it will form beads of water – condensation. If it is a porous material such as a carpet, bed linen, curtains, clothes then the condensation will soak into the material and it becomes damp. Hygroscopic materials actually pull the moisture into them (a bit like kitchen towel soaks up spills). The walls and ceilings are plaster and most likely gypsum plaster and will pull in water vapour. Even if the surface has been painted over with a plastic emulsion the vapour can still go though. Water molecules are too big though so they cannot pass through. So what have we ended up with? Hot and steamy air in the shower room. The air is cooling down and the high humidity air drops to the floor. The door is left open and all that humid air has a greater pressure than the cooler air of the other rooms. The pressure enables the humid air to roll across the floor and down stairs if there are any (not very common in a bungalow though) filling anywhere it can. As it does so the water vapour condenses out of the air and either forms condensation (water) or makes things damp. Enter the mould spore. Air isn’t just nitrogen and oxygen plus a few trace gases. It also contains pollutants. They can be particulates (tiny particles of solid matter that are so small they cannot normally be seen). They are there though. That is what dust is. There is enough energy in air to bounce the gas molecules against the solids causing them to float. As the air cools down, less energy and the solid particulates are pulled downwards by gravity. (Dust settles more so at night when it is cooler and the air more static). Moulds Mould spores are microscopic, so tiny they are virtually invisible. They are naturally blowing around in the air. Natural and necessary they are one of nature’s cleaners taking anything they can back into the ground. A dead tree would still be there forever if it wasn’t for moulds and fungi. The spores float in and out of everywhere including buildings and vehicles. We breathe them in and our bodies have various methods to stop them doing any damage to us. If we have a breathing issue though, or generally unwell the spores can set up reactions. They can cause eyes and ears to itch, throats to become inflamed, breathing difficulties and possibly worse. Black spore mould is very common. The spores are present in the air as mentioned. If they become attached to a host surface they can soak up moisture and the chemicals it contains. They cannot eat as such but absorb moisture. If the moisture has carbon in it that is food to the spore and it will multiply. More moisture, more carbon = more spores until there is a colony of them. Sugar is made up of carbon. Cellulose is the natural sugar found in wood and wood based products such as paper and cardboard. It is also a base for wallpaper paste hence; ‘Poly cell ’. Plaster is hygroscopic and will soak up moisture from the air. The wall is a conductor of heat energy therefore the plaster will be continually cooled down. The plaster will condense water vapour and any wall paper will in turn become damp. The mould spores can suck up (actually they can’t ‘suck’ they just absorb) the moisture including the carbon content in the cellulose. The wallpaper is a wood pulp product and the paste also full of cellulose. Mould spores can then multiply very quickly. More steamy showers = more moisture everywhere = mould growth. The cooler areas behind curtains, behind furniture, in and under drawers, under mattresses and in wardrobes are all ideal for mould spores. The moist air will go everywhere.
by Robert Cooke 3 November 2018
Buying property can be very stressful. You find something you like and hopefully can afford. It's not a new build so it won't come with any guarantees or warranties. 'Caveat emptor' - let the buyer beware! You'll be paying stamp duty, legal conveyance fees, valuation fee and so on so why pay out for a Building Surveyor? The house I surveyed this week was built in the 1950's, roughly 70 years ago. It had been through long drought years, wet years, cold year etc. so things will wear out. When you look around the property the main focus tends to be on what you can do with it. Settee can go there, tele' can go on the wall over there, kitchen needs a bit of an update, bathroom's not bad and the main bedroom is a reasonable size. And so it goes on. A Building Surveyor isn't interested in any of that at all. He or she will be looking at the roof lines, chimney condition, whether all the opening windows actually open easily, doors shut properly, locks actually lock, drains are working and so on. Basically all the nuts and bolts that keep the building together. The surveyor checks for anything that moves that shouldn't, has a crack in it, a chip out of it, water in it when it should be dry. Looks in spaces behind furniture, looks for strange marks, different materials, checks lights work, sockets have been wired up correctly, looks for signs of condensation, mould, mildew and a whole gambit of issues that you wouldn't dream of looking at when you view the property. The house I looked at was very neat and tidy and very clean, not a quick wash round. That made checking for condensation and moulds very easy as there were no tell-tale stains anywhere. The vendor was a keen DIYer. Very good at decorating and gardening. Not so good at complying with Regulations though. A Building Surveyor should be familiar with various styles of building and materials that would be used. If a room proportion looks out of character or sounds strange when tapped interest should be shown. Has the position of a wall been moved? If so should it should have had Building Regulation approval or a Building Notice Certificate? Many people just knock walls down to make two rooms into one. A bit of steel and plasterboard - all done. Is it safe though? Was the wall a buttress wall, part of a cruciform structure for a semi-detached? It may not have any joists on it but it is required to support another wall. What about the electrics? The vendor has re-wired the house. He wasn't a qualified electrician but had an electrician put a new consumer unit in. Checking the cabling in the loft it was clear nothing had been clipped, connectors and switches just left loose on and under the loft insulation. A qualified electrician will need to check all of the wiring and sign the work off as complying with the Building Act and Building Regulations. The UPVC windows had been foam fixed. Not a fixing screw anywhere. Do the windows need fixing screws? Were they fitted in compliance with FENSA and certificated or checked and Certificated by the Local Authority Building Control. Is it important? Yes is the short answer. It is going to cost money to remedy all the issues. Who is going to pay? The buyer or the vendor? Does it need to be remedied? Again yes. If it is a safety issue that is important. If it is something that needs to comply with Regulations then apart from being an offence if not Certified it may devalue the property especially if something collapses or starts to fall apart later. If you want to sell in the future then the conveyancing firm will be asking for the information. There is a lot more information in Buying Your First Home. It is also very useful for anyone considering moving home.
by Robert Cooke 28 October 2018
What are Property Surveys? There are many different types and lots of mis-conceptions about what they actually cover.
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