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Employing a Nightmare!

Robert Cooke • Jan 08, 2019

What's the best way of getting a decent job done?

Getting someone in to install central heating, a new bathroom suite, or electrical works should be straightforward. Get 3 quotes (not estimates), look for trade association logo, and then reviews. Simple.

Reviews – who do you believe though? The reviews on the trader’s website? They could have written them themselves. What about the various websites that advertise you can 'trust certain traders'? Surely they must be true? In theory yes – in practice NO!

Ah but they must be okay as they have a trade logo stating they are a member of XYZ trade. Nope – That doesn’t mean much other than they pay an annual subscription. Technically a business can be expelled if there is a good reason for it. You can check if a trader is a member if you know their membership number. Rogue traders have been known to put various trade association logos on their vans and letter heads even though they are not members.

What about the guy who advertises that he has passed his GNVQ? It’s an achievement but not really a trade qualification.

A recent case:

A lady wanted full central heating put in to her terraced house. The neighbour had his done a few years ago by British Gas and they did a great job. Problem for the lady was she couldn’t afford the British Gas price.

Never mind, a freebee newspaper came through the letterbox with a flyer. It was advertising a Central Heating business. Local and had 5 star rating with one of those firms who claim you can trust their members (You know the one).

The reviews were really good and keen prices. She had someone round who explained what they would do and then send an estimate through the post. So far so good; A local business, has the Gas Safe logo on the letter headed paper. They wanted 50% up front and the balance when the job was completed. (Not so good)

The lady accepted the estimate and the contractor arrived in a beaten up old van. Two guys, neither of which were the guy who had been before. Lady went to work leaving the contractors to get on with the job.

I was working next door and could hear the noise through the wall. It sounded like they were using a Mickey mouse drill, not pneumatic masonry and took forever to drill each hole. Their tools were certainly not tradesman quality. DIY at best.

Two days after they started the neighbour asked me to look at what they had done so far. They had the gas boiler fired up and the radiators were hot, but what a mess! The surveyor (Boss of the firm) had agreed that gas pipe that was to have been run up behind the stairs (as it had been next door). The contractor had run a new pipe that went down under the floor.

The 22mm dia pipe had been notched into every floor joist across the house. 100mm joist with a 35mm notch out of it right next to the bearing (support). The pipe diameter then increases to 25mm dia before going up through the floor into the room above. It then reduces back down to 22mm dia before going into the loft. From there it drops down to feed the boiler in an upstairs back bedroom.

Next door also had their boiler fitted in a cupboard in the back bedroom. Their gas pipe was 22mm diameter only and was neatly run from the cupboard under the stairs, through the first floor up to the boiler. Not noticeable other than in the stair cupboard.

In contrast the lady now had very deep notches in every floor joist next to the bearing. (Apart from the notches being too deep they should not be anywhere near the joist bearings as stated in the Building Regulations and TRADA documents).

There are unsightly pipes in the corner of the main living room and the main bedroom above. The water pipes to the radiators have been run above the floor even though the original surveyor had assured her that the pipes would be run under the floor.

As you can see by the photos the fitters were not good tradesmen. Cowboys at best.

So what happened next?

The lady could smell gas so she called the emergency line. They arrived and found that one of the many compression fittings had not been tightened enough. (The fitters should have tested for gas leaks before they had left for the day).

The Gas Safe were called in to inspect the work.

The contractor is known to them but is still in business. He has signed the work off after putting all the long list of things that were not in compliance with the Gas Regulations.

(The photo's were taken after he had put the work right. According to the contractor the work was okay now)

The end result is the lady still has the notches in the floor joists, still has varying diameter gas pipes with an end pressure on the very minimum feed for the gas boiler. The pipe work still runs up the walls and over the floors.

It has been an impossible task to find another contractor to put the work right. Many refused even to look at the job and those who did say that it is not something they want to become involved in.

Take the contractor to Court!

Not worth it. The contractor is listed at Companies House so it was easy to check. He has declared assets of less than £500. Even if the lady had the money to take the contractor to Court it is unlikely that he would pay her for the damages and the money he took as a deposit.

Back to the start then

How to select a contractor

  1. Recommendation - Good tradesman often don’t advertise as they get more than enough work from word of mouth.
  2. Homework - Use the Internet to see if people are complaining about the business. There‘s normally three sides to each story; the customer's side, the tradesman's side and the truth.
  3. Companies House - Check to see the trading accounts. Also if there have been lots of changes of directors. (The firm in question used to have several directors but they had all resigned several months ago. That included family members).
  4. Bad signs - If a contractor wants 50% of the bill up front it could indicate a cash flow problem. (If local suppliers won’t give credit to a business it indicates they know something is wrong).
  5. Statements - If the surveyor states certain things will be done ask for it to be confirmed on the quote. Words are cheap and if it does end up in Court having it in writing is an advantage.
  6. Estimates V Quotes - Ask for a quote. The difference between an estimate and a quote can cost you dearly.


The difference between an estimate and a quote:
An estimate is approximate. They think it will cost xyz. They can invoice you whatever they like afterwards as you have accepted the estimate.
A quote is specific. They will do the job for £x. If they do more work than they quoted for then they require more money. That is reasonable.

For example a plumber quotes for replacing an old boiler. When he takes the old one off he finds the wall behind is not strong enough to take the weight of the new one and additional steel brackets are required. That would be a reasonable extra. In contrast the contractor hasn’t allowed for enough pipe work, fittings and a special flue. Sorry he should have known that – his mistake and should not charge more. However things do happen and a reasonable customer would probably accept the mistake and agree to pay even though they are technically not obliged to. Any decent tradesman would be too embarrassed to admit he had messed up and would put it down to experience.

Contracts are technical documents. Many, if not most small trade contractors do their own quotes and or estimates. Many, if not most have not been trained in the documentation side. They can be an excellent plumber or electrician and get plenty of work but when it comes down to paperwork it is not their forte. According to statistics more people go out of business due to the paperwork side than because they are bad workers.

There's more tips on getting jobs done in Buying Your First Home Handbook

by Robert Cooke 22 Feb, 2019
Is Artex really that dangerous? Know the facts and not just urban myths. Guns are not dangerous - it's the persons holding it that is. Artex - how to live with it safely. This blog provides practical information about the risks involved and who is most at risk.
by Robert Cooke 02 Jan, 2019
Hot always goes to cold unless energy is used. It cannot be stopped, only slowed down. So those companies who claim they can stop heat loss are kidding you. Heat is normally the product of molecule collisions. Similar to your hands becoming warmer if you quickly clap them together for a short period. In solid items the molecules cannot move much other than vibrate therefore requires a lot of energy to keep the vibrations going. That is why it takes a lot of energy to heat dense materials such as metal, masonry and glass. (Technically glass is a super cooled liquid as opposed to a solid).
by Robert Cooke 12 Dec, 2018
We’re following on with Tracy and Roger and their apartment being expensive to heat. As their apartment has very high humidity levels the cost of heating will be higher than it need be. To heat anything be it a brick, a saucepan, a kettle full of water, they all require energy. However the amount differs with each material or liquid. Water for instance requires a lot of energy to heat it but it also holds heat reasonably well. If the weather is very hot and humid our body sweats to try and keep us cooler. The idea is the sweat being water will absorb heat energy and cool the surface of the skin. Conversely if we are feeling cold our body stops producing water vapour and raises the fine hairs that cover the body in order to trap air from moving. Still air is a good insulator. The bottom line is water and wet things take a lot of energy to try and raise the temperature. Dry air takes far less energy to heat it. Tracy and Roger have, or rather had a very humid apartment that made everything damp. Even the air was full of water vapour so it took a lot of energy to raise the air temperature. Drying the whole apartment out with the dehumidifier mentioned in the previous blog has made the air will be easier to heat. The air is in contact with most things in the apartment so it will raise the temperature of everything it is in contact with until it is all at the same temperature.
by Robert Cooke 03 Dec, 2018
Mostly breathing and as a result of bathing. Moisture from breathing is easy to prove but it might be a surprise just how much water one adult produces. If the air is cold you can see breath condensing in the air. But we also breathe through our skin. More accurately we expel water vapour through the millions of holes in the skin. The vapour condenses (sweat) and the water then absorbs heat cooling us down. When we sleep our body temperature needs to cool down by about 1 or 2 degrees. To cool down whilst feeling cosy in bed means expelling water vapour – sweat. It mostly soaks into our PJs and into the bed linen, covers and mattress.
by Robert Cooke 23 Nov, 2018
The Blog this week is about: Myths and mis-information regarding Condensation & Moulds There are Company websites proclaiming they are ‘experts in condensation and mould issues’. They state things like: ‘Get the professionals in’, ‘The condensation experts’. But should you believe them? How do you know if they are just a website that states ‘pseudo facts’ that are nothing more than just myths? Even Local Councils and Housing Associations get taken in. Look at some of their facts and compare with actual proven science: Opening windows ‘Open the window and let all the steam out’ – It helps very slightly however doesn’t do much at all to reduce the condensation around the home. As mentioned in a previous blog dry air is molecules of nitrogen (78%), oxygen (21%) and trace gases (1%) with space in between them. Humid air is dry air with water molecules (vapour) in the spaces. Water can be solid as ice, liquid as water or gas as vapour. The molecules are exactly the same with a ratio of 1 hydrogen atom to 2 oxygen atoms (H2O). Water can vaporise at temperatures well below boiling point (100°C). The evidence is water evaporates from the oceans and seas etc. Leave a glass of water and eventually the water will evaporate. (If you want to find out more it will be in Construction Science Explained – www.buildabooks.co.uk out next year). The atoms of a water molecule remain the same whether it is water, ice or vapour. As vapour they can float in the spaces between the other gases in the air. That process is termed humidity. A common ‘myth-statement’ ‘Steam is water vapour’ . Not true. Steam is water. It is water vapour that has condensed in the air therefore it is actually condensation and visible. Gases including water vapour are not visible. Molecules are more than one atom. It can be the same type or different types termed compounds. Either way although they do not have a weight as such (Atoms have an atomic weight that is a comparison with a carbon atom). Atoms do have a mass though. That mass can be attracted by a greater mass. The greater the mass the stronger the attraction. (Similar to weight). The planet Earth is made up of an enormous number of atoms. The combined attraction (pulling force) we call ‘gravity’. It’s a bit like a very large magnet will attract a smaller item such as a nail. The nail if magnetised will attract a smaller pin, and so it goes on down the sizes. Gravity however is a strong attractive force that can go through most things and still attract. It can go through the tallest buildings and still have an effect on an aircraft flying at 35,000 feet in the air. So logically it also has an attractive force on every atom be it in a solid (the aircraft), a liquid (rain comes downwards) and the gases. If it didn’t have any effect on the gases they would all have gone off into outer space. Irrefutable evidence: the higher the altitude the less molecules. We state that the air is ‘thinner’. What it actually means there are less molecules, less nitrogen, less oxygen etc. and a lot more space. So what has all this proved? Air can be dry – no water vapour in it. Very rare though, most air has some water vapour in it even in the hottest deserts. Atoms have a mass. The more mass in the same volume means there is more atoms for gravity to act on. We term that ‘weight’. If you could take say a gold bar that has a weight on Earth of 6kg then send it to the Moon it would then only weigh about 1kg. The gold bar hasn’t changed, it still has exactly the same number of atoms in it. The only difference is the attraction force ‘gravity’. The Moon is that much smaller so less atoms to to do the attraction. If air is heated the molecules will become more energised. They will move more quickly and collide with each other. The collisions tend to end up as the molecules bouncing off and going in a different direction to their next collision. All the time that is happening gravity is trying to pull them down to the lowest point and slows them down The result is less collisions = less heat generated = the air cools down. If a cubic metre of air is considered there will be a given number of air molecules in it at a specific temperature. If the molecules are given more heat (energy) they become more energised and travel faster and further. There will be fewer molecules in the cubic metre as the temperature rises. Fewer molecules means the pull of gravity has less effect. The cooler air will push the warmer less dense air upwards. Warm air rises and that is the reason why. Evidence: the attractive force of gravity can be compared to magnetic attractive force. The closer together metal particles are the easier the magnet can attract them (ignore friction). Warm air is less dense than cooler air as there are fewer molecules for gravity to act on. Warm air therefore is displaced by cooler air that has more molecules in the given volume. The end result is warmer air will be pushed upwards by the cooler air trying to get as low as possible. That was considering dry air only; Nitrogen, oxygen and trace gases argon and carbon dioxide. Now add water vapour. Water vapour (H2O) has mass so will be attracted by gravity. The more vapour that can fill the gaps in the dry air the denser the molecules. The more effect by gravitational pull and the air is effectively ‘heavier’. At the same temperature the humid air is going to sink. As is sinks it displaces (pushes) the drier air out of the way. If there are walls then the only place the lighter drier air can go is upwards. It is said it ‘rises’ but it is actually it is being pushed upwards by the more dense air. (Nothing can go upwards without energy being used, not even atoms). So dry air is less dense than humid air at the same temperature. The warmer the air the fewer number of molecules therefore they get pushed upwards (rise).
by Robert Cooke 15 Nov, 2018
The Blog this weeks is about: Condensation & Moulds Now is the time that condensation and mould growth are most noticeable. The temperatures outside are dropping and rain and damp mornings are commonplace. Here are: · 6 easy ways to reduce Condensation and moulds around your home And if you’re interested into the ‘whys and what ifs’ then the science will explain all. The science behind as to: · ‘Why does mould grow behind and under my furniture?’ · ‘Why have my best leather boots gone mouldy in a box under my bed?’ · ‘What if I turn the heating up?’ · ‘Why do my clothes get mould on them when they’re in a drawer?’ · ‘Why does the grout on my bathroom tiles go mouldy?’ To start with though: 6 easy ways to reduce Condensation and moulds 1.  Install an efficient extractor in the bathroom over the shower area. 2.  Turn the extractor on before you turn the shower or bath taps on. 3.  Ensure there is a minimum gap of 10mm (3/8”) under the bathroom door. Make sure the gap is above the top of the carpet pile. 4.  Have the maximum over-run (30mins) set on the timer. Or leave the extractor on for 30minutes after you have finished the shower. 5.  Wipe down the shower walls and shower tray or bath to remove as much water as you can. 6.  Keep the bathroom / en-suite door closed or very slightly open to keep the humid air in that room. Stop it spreading throughout your home. Those 6 easy steps will significantly reduce condensation in your home. Mould needs moisture to multiply and you’ve just reduced that. The science for those interested: Air is mainly nitrogen (78%) and oxygen (21%), plus 1% traces of other gases. That’s only a guide though. Imagine nothing, absolutely nothing. No atoms, no gases, not a single thing – space – nothing. Now imagine lots of tennis balls and table tennis balls in that space. They can represent the nitrogen and oxygen molecules. There is still space between them though where there is nothing. In that space there will be argon and carbon dioxide. They make up about 1% of the gas content of air. Now we can put in some other gases into the spaces: Hydrogen and some more oxygen at the ratio of H2O or more commonly known as water. Water can be as a solid (ice), liquid (water) or gas (vapour). It is still H2O though. Gravity acts on gases in the same way as it does on solids and liquids. The main difference is that the molecules in gases have energy that makes them continually move. They continually collide with other molecules bouncing around in the space. When there are lots of molecules close together (more dense) the gravity has more effect. Dry air has fewer molecules than humid air therefore lighter (at a comparable temperature). Back to the shower – Hot water has put more energy into the molecules. They are moving around very quickly colliding frequently. Eventually unless more energy (heat in this case) is put in the molecules they will slow down and collide less. The pressure will slowly decrease and more molecules will be in one place (density = mass divided by volume). The humid air will cool down and become even heavier as more molecules gather together. End result; A hot shower will produce a lot of water vapour (it hasn’t got to be above 100°C though) The water vapour will go in between the nitrogen and the oxygen molecules until it virtually fills all the spaces. That is saturation point. If the air is at a specific temperature it can be calculated how much water vapour it can take up. As the air cools down the molecules slow down and the collisions reduce. The number of molecules in the same volume increases and the air becomes denser. Cooler saturated air is heavier than warmer drier air. Therefore the humid air will go to as low as it can get – the floor. Leave the bathroom door open wide and all that humid air will fall out of the room into other rooms, even down the stairs. As it does so the humid air will condense on anything that is cooler than the air. Cold surfaces like walls, windows, ceramic tiles, and carpets. Furniture such as beds, settees, wardrobes and drawers will all be cooler than the humid air so will condense the moisture. Areas behind furniture are particularly vulnerable as there will be minimal heat (thermal convection). The gap will have a cool wall on one side and cool back of the furniture on the other. The wall is likely to have plaster on it, or be made from a sheet of plasterboard. Gypsum plaster requires a lot of water to enable it to be fully workable. Literally hundreds of litres are required to plaster out a house. It then takes about a year for it to fully evaporate off if the room air is dry. The plaster when dry is then full of minute holes that the water once filled. Crystals have formed with tiny gaps between them. The result is a hygroscopic material, meaning it will absorb moisture where available. Now back to the plot. Shower of hot water vapour saturating the air. The hot water is providing energy to the air molecules and they are all moving very fast and colliding. Gravity is trying to pull all the molecules downward therefore slowing them down. As they slow down more molecules gather in a specific volume of air and it sinks downwards. Humid air contains more molecules than dry air therefore it is heavier and will sink. Any material that is cooler than the humid air will condense the water vapour back into liquid form – water. If it is a non-porous material such as glass, metal or plastic it will form beads of water – condensation. If it is a porous material such as a carpet, bed linen, curtains, clothes then the condensation will soak into the material and it becomes damp. Hygroscopic materials actually pull the moisture into them (a bit like kitchen towel soaks up spills). The walls and ceilings are plaster and most likely gypsum plaster and will pull in water vapour. Even if the surface has been painted over with a plastic emulsion the vapour can still go though. Water molecules are too big though so they cannot pass through. So what have we ended up with? Hot and steamy air in the shower room. The air is cooling down and the high humidity air drops to the floor. The door is left open and all that humid air has a greater pressure than the cooler air of the other rooms. The pressure enables the humid air to roll across the floor and down stairs if there are any (not very common in a bungalow though) filling anywhere it can. As it does so the water vapour condenses out of the air and either forms condensation (water) or makes things damp. Enter the mould spore. Air isn’t just nitrogen and oxygen plus a few trace gases. It also contains pollutants. They can be particulates (tiny particles of solid matter that are so small they cannot normally be seen). They are there though. That is what dust is. There is enough energy in air to bounce the gas molecules against the solids causing them to float. As the air cools down, less energy and the solid particulates are pulled downwards by gravity. (Dust settles more so at night when it is cooler and the air more static). Moulds Mould spores are microscopic, so tiny they are virtually invisible. They are naturally blowing around in the air. Natural and necessary they are one of nature’s cleaners taking anything they can back into the ground. A dead tree would still be there forever if it wasn’t for moulds and fungi. The spores float in and out of everywhere including buildings and vehicles. We breathe them in and our bodies have various methods to stop them doing any damage to us. If we have a breathing issue though, or generally unwell the spores can set up reactions. They can cause eyes and ears to itch, throats to become inflamed, breathing difficulties and possibly worse. Black spore mould is very common. The spores are present in the air as mentioned. If they become attached to a host surface they can soak up moisture and the chemicals it contains. They cannot eat as such but absorb moisture. If the moisture has carbon in it that is food to the spore and it will multiply. More moisture, more carbon = more spores until there is a colony of them. Sugar is made up of carbon. Cellulose is the natural sugar found in wood and wood based products such as paper and cardboard. It is also a base for wallpaper paste hence; ‘Poly cell ’. Plaster is hygroscopic and will soak up moisture from the air. The wall is a conductor of heat energy therefore the plaster will be continually cooled down. The plaster will condense water vapour and any wall paper will in turn become damp. The mould spores can suck up (actually they can’t ‘suck’ they just absorb) the moisture including the carbon content in the cellulose. The wallpaper is a wood pulp product and the paste also full of cellulose. Mould spores can then multiply very quickly. More steamy showers = more moisture everywhere = mould growth. The cooler areas behind curtains, behind furniture, in and under drawers, under mattresses and in wardrobes are all ideal for mould spores. The moist air will go everywhere.
by Robert Cooke 03 Nov, 2018
Buying property can be very stressful. You find something you like and hopefully can afford. It's not a new build so it won't come with any guarantees or warranties. 'Caveat emptor' - let the buyer beware! You'll be paying stamp duty, legal conveyance fees, valuation fee and so on so why pay out for a Building Surveyor? The house I surveyed this week was built in the 1950's, roughly 70 years ago. It had been through long drought years, wet years, cold year etc. so things will wear out. When you look around the property the main focus tends to be on what you can do with it. Settee can go there, tele' can go on the wall over there, kitchen needs a bit of an update, bathroom's not bad and the main bedroom is a reasonable size. And so it goes on. A Building Surveyor isn't interested in any of that at all. He or she will be looking at the roof lines, chimney condition, whether all the opening windows actually open easily, doors shut properly, locks actually lock, drains are working and so on. Basically all the nuts and bolts that keep the building together. The surveyor checks for anything that moves that shouldn't, has a crack in it, a chip out of it, water in it when it should be dry. Looks in spaces behind furniture, looks for strange marks, different materials, checks lights work, sockets have been wired up correctly, looks for signs of condensation, mould, mildew and a whole gambit of issues that you wouldn't dream of looking at when you view the property. The house I looked at was very neat and tidy and very clean, not a quick wash round. That made checking for condensation and moulds very easy as there were no tell-tale stains anywhere. The vendor was a keen DIYer. Very good at decorating and gardening. Not so good at complying with Regulations though. A Building Surveyor should be familiar with various styles of building and materials that would be used. If a room proportion looks out of character or sounds strange when tapped interest should be shown. Has the position of a wall been moved? If so should it should have had Building Regulation approval or a Building Notice Certificate? Many people just knock walls down to make two rooms into one. A bit of steel and plasterboard - all done. Is it safe though? Was the wall a buttress wall, part of a cruciform structure for a semi-detached? It may not have any joists on it but it is required to support another wall. What about the electrics? The vendor has re-wired the house. He wasn't a qualified electrician but had an electrician put a new consumer unit in. Checking the cabling in the loft it was clear nothing had been clipped, connectors and switches just left loose on and under the loft insulation. A qualified electrician will need to check all of the wiring and sign the work off as complying with the Building Act and Building Regulations. The UPVC windows had been foam fixed. Not a fixing screw anywhere. Do the windows need fixing screws? Were they fitted in compliance with FENSA and certificated or checked and Certificated by the Local Authority Building Control. Is it important? Yes is the short answer. It is going to cost money to remedy all the issues. Who is going to pay? The buyer or the vendor? Does it need to be remedied? Again yes. If it is a safety issue that is important. If it is something that needs to comply with Regulations then apart from being an offence if not Certified it may devalue the property especially if something collapses or starts to fall apart later. If you want to sell in the future then the conveyancing firm will be asking for the information. There is a lot more information in Buying Your First Home. It is also very useful for anyone considering moving home.
by Robert Cooke 28 Oct, 2018
What are Property Surveys? There are many different types and lots of mis-conceptions about what they actually cover.
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